Fluids

The reflection that changes the wavelength

An internal wave's frequency fixes the angle its energy makes with gravity, so a sloping wall cannot send it back the way a mirror would. The reflected beam leaves at the same angle to the vertical rather than the same angle to the wall, its wavelength changes by a factor that diverges when the slope matches the ray, and in a closed basin the changes accumulate until every ray in the fluid lies on one line.

Assumes: The wave that is required to stand still · The wave that picks an angle

Every wave in this collection so far reflects the way a ball bounces: the angle to the boundary is preserved, and a mirror tilted by ten degrees turns a beam by twenty. What happens where the medium changes is a statement about impedance, and the geometry of it never varies, because the speed of the wave is a number and a number has no direction in it.

An internal wave’s speed is not a number. Its dispersion relation fixes the angle its energy travels at, through sinθ=ω/N\sin\theta = \omega/N with θ\theta measured from the horizontal, and says nothing at all about its wavelength. The restoring force is gravity; gravity points one way; so the fluid has a preferred direction built into it and the angle is a property of the frequency rather than of the geometry.

Reflection has to preserve the frequency, because the boundary is not moving. So it has to preserve the angle to the vertical. And a wall that is not horizontal cannot then send the beam back as a mirror would.

A reflection that keeps the angle to gravity and not to the wall. An internal wave beam of frequency 0.5N reflecting from a slope of 12°, with the wavelength ratio for slopes of 12°, 20°, 28° computed beside it. The frequency fixes the angle the energy makes with the horizontal — 30.0° here — because the restoring force is gravity and gravity is vertical, so the reflected beam must leave at that same angle whatever the wall is doing. Incident and reflected rays are therefore not mirror images, and the wavelength changes on reflection by sin(θ+α)/sin(θ−α). A flat floor gives one, checked exactly. A slope approaching the ray's own angle gives infinity, checked as the limit, and that is where a basin's internal tide is compressed until it breaks.
Fig. 1 A beam at half the buoyancy frequency, arriving at a slope and leaving it. Both rays make thirty degrees with the horizontal, because the frequency requires it; neither makes any particular angle with the wall. The wavelength therefore changes on reflection, by sin(θ+α)/sin(θ−α) — 1.35 off a twelve-degree slope, 4.8 off a twenty-eight-degree one, and infinite when the slope matches the ray.

What has to be conserved, and what does not

The reflection law of an ordinary wave comes from one requirement: the phase along the boundary has to match on both sides, at every point and every instant. That single restriction produces the law of reflection, Snell’s law and the diffraction grating, and it works because the wave’s speed is isotropic — knowing the tangential wavenumber and the speed fixes the normal one, up to sign.

Here the same restriction applies and gives a different answer, because the relation between wavenumber and frequency is anisotropic. Preserving the tangential wavenumber and the frequency leaves the total wavenumber free to change, and it does. The reflected beam has the same angle to the vertical and a different wavelength, related to the incident one by

λrλi=sin(θ+α)sin(θα)\frac{\lambda_r}{\lambda_i} = \left|\frac{\sin(\theta + \alpha)}{\sin(\theta - \alpha)}\right|

with α\alpha the slope of the wall. For α=0\alpha = 0 that is one, and the ordinary law is recovered — a flat floor reflects an internal wave exactly as a mirror does, which is the check that the strange law contains the familiar one.

For αθ\alpha \to \theta it diverges. That is the critical case: a slope inclined at exactly the ray’s own angle, on which the reflected beam runs along the wall itself with its wavelength squeezed to nothing.

A reflection that keeps the angle to gravity and not to the wall. An internal wave beam of frequency 0.3N reflecting from a slope of 8°, with the wavelength ratio for slopes of 8°, 14°, 17° computed beside it. The frequency fixes the angle the energy makes with the horizontal — 17.5° here — because the restoring force is gravity and gravity is vertical, so the reflected beam must leave at that same angle whatever the wall is doing. Incident and reflected rays are therefore not mirror images, and the wavelength changes on reflection by sin(θ+α)/sin(θ−α). A flat floor gives one, checked exactly. A slope approaching the ray's own angle gives infinity, checked as the limit, and that is where a basin's internal tide is compressed until it breaks.
Fig. 2 The same construction at a lower frequency, where the rays are shallower — 17.5 degrees rather than 30 — so a gentler slope is already critical. Which slopes focus and which do not is therefore a property of the frequency as much as of the seabed, and the same continental slope is critical for the semidiurnal tide at one latitude and not at another.

The divergence is a simple pole, which the figures check rather than assert: the ratio times the distance from critical approaches sin2θ\sin 2\theta as the slope is brought within a hundredth of a degree of the ray. That matters because a divergence and a singularity of some other order would have quite different physical consequences, and only the pole gives the observed concentration.

Critical slopes are not rare

The obvious objection to all of this is that a slope exactly matching a ray angle sounds like a measure-zero coincidence, and it is not.

The semidiurnal tide has a frequency fixed by the Moon. The buoyancy frequency of the deep ocean is between 10310^{-3} and 10210^{-2} per second, and the Coriolis frequency depends on latitude, so the internal tide’s ray angle is a few degrees from the horizontal over most of the ocean — typically between one and five. Continental slopes and mid-ocean ridge flanks are between one and ten degrees over enormous areas.

So the two overlap, and a substantial fraction of the world’s continental slope is at or near critical for the internal tide. The Bay of Biscay slope, the Hawaiian ridge flanks and the Australian North West Shelf are all documented cases where the criticality is measured rather than inferred, and the observed consequence is what the pole predicts: elevated shear, elevated turbulence, and mixing rates one to two orders of magnitude above the ocean interior’s background — an entropy produced by a gradient in a place chosen by geometry.

The angle a beam takes, against the frequency it was driven at. The angle an internal-wave beam makes with the horizontal, against the driving frequency in units of the buoyancy frequency N — here 1.053e-2 per second, a period of 9.9 minutes for a lapse rate of 6.5 K per kilometre. At very low frequency the beams are almost horizontal; at ω approaching N they stand almost vertical; and past N the shaded region is empty, because ω = N cos φ has no solution when the ratio exceeds one and the fluid simply does not radiate. Two things about this curve are unlike any other dispersion relation in this collection. It contains no wavelength — the frequency fixes a direction and leaves the scale completely free, so beams of any thickness travel at the same angle and a beam is not a mode. And its slope at ω = N is vertical, which is why the response of a stratified fluid piles up at exactly that frequency: everything driven near N goes almost straight up, and the buoyancy frequency of the atmosphere and the ocean shows up in measurements as a sharp edge in the spectrum rather than as a peak.
Fig. 3 The angle a beam takes against the frequency driving it — the relation this whole essay follows from. What makes the reflection law strange is entirely here: an ordinary wave’s angle is set by the geometry of the source and preserved by the medium, and this one’s is set by the medium and cannot be changed by any geometry at all.
The cross a shaken cylinder leaves in a stratified fluid. The beams radiated by a small body oscillating in a fluid of buoyancy frequency 1.053e-2 per second — a period of 9.9 minutes — at 0.3, 0.5, 0.7 times that frequency. The disturbance does not spread in circles. It leaves along four rays, and the angle of those rays to the horizontal is fixed entirely by the ratio of the driving frequency to the buoyancy frequency: 17.5° at 0.3N, 30.0° at 0.5N, 44.4° at 0.7N. Nothing about the size of the body, the amplitude of the shaking or the wavelength enters. Drive it faster and the beams stand up; drive it slower and they lie down; drive it above N and there are no beams at all, because the dispersion relation ω = N cos φ has no solution. The short arrows across each beam are the wavevector, which is perpendicular to the beam — the dot products drawn here are 6e-17 — so the crests travel sideways across the ray while the energy travels along it, and a fluid doing this looks, in a photograph, as though its waves are moving at right angles to where they are going.
Fig. 4 The four beams a single oscillating source sends out in a stratified fluid, at three frequencies. This is the object the reflection law acts on: not a wavefront spreading in all directions, but energy confined to four rays whose angle the frequency alone decides. A boundary meeting one of these cannot redirect it — only change what is inside it.

What happens where the slope is critical

Between the ordinary case and the divergence there is a regime worth separating, because it is where most of the ocean actually sits.

A slope gentler than the ray angle is subcritical: the reflected beam continues in the same horizontal direction, propagating up the slope, with its wavelength shortened. A slope steeper than the ray angle is supercritical: the beam is turned back the way it came, with its wavelength lengthened. The two behaviours are qualitatively different — one transmits energy shoreward and the other returns it seaward — and the boundary between them is a slope equal to the ray angle, at which the wavelength ratio passes through infinity.

That is not a smooth transition through a large number. It is a change of topological character, and it is why the criticality parameter — the ratio of the seabed’s slope to the ray’s — is the first thing an observational programme measures. A shelf edge whose criticality passes through one somewhere along its length has a place where the internal tide changes from being reflected to being transmitted, and that place is where the energy is deposited.

What is observed at such places is more than shear. The shoaling internal tide steepens as it runs up a subcritical slope, in the same way a front steepens until it cannot, and breaks into a train of nonlinear solitary waves — boluses of dense water that run up the slope, mixing as they go. They are directly observed on the Australian and Portuguese shelves and carry a substantial fraction of the shoreward energy flux. Nothing in the linear ray argument produces them, and the ray argument is what says where to point the instruments.

The same law, in two fluids that are not stratified

The reflection law is strange because the dispersion relation ties frequency to direction, and stratification is not the only way to arrange that.

A rotating fluid does it too. Inertial waves in a fluid rotating at Ω\Omega obey ω=2Ωcosφ\omega = 2\Omega\cos\varphi — the same form, with the rotation axis playing the part of gravity — so their energy also travels at an angle fixed by frequency, they also form St Andrew’s crosses from an oscillating source, and they also produce attractors in a tilted container. The laboratory demonstrations are done in rotating tanks and give the same limit cycles, and the astrophysical application is to the fluid interiors of rotating stars and planets, where tidal forcing at an orbital frequency is thought to concentrate onto exactly such paths.

A magnetised plasma does a third version. A shear Alfvén wave’s energy travels along the field whatever direction its wavevector points, which is the same relation taken to its limit: the angle is not merely fixed by the frequency but fixed at zero. The reflection law for a field line meeting a boundary at an angle is correspondingly extreme, and the phase-mixing that heats a corona is the same wavelength-contraction mechanism as this essay’s attractor, driven by a gradient in the wave speed rather than by a tilted wall.

Three fluids with nothing in common — a salt-stratified tank, a rotating one, and a plasma — share the reflection law because they share the shape of the dispersion relation. That is the strongest form of the habit this collection keeps finding: the behaviour belongs to the equation and not to the substance.

What repeated reflections do

A single reflection changes a wavelength by a factor. A closed basin applies the factor over and over.

Consider a basin with a flat floor, a flat surface, one vertical wall and one sloping wall — a trapezoid, which is roughly the cross-section of a great many real basins. A ray bounces off the floor and the surface without changing wavelength, off the vertical wall without changing it either, and off the sloping wall by a factor that is not one. So each complete circuit multiplies the wavelength by something, and if that something is less than one, the ray shrinks.

Every ray in the basin ends up on the same line. A ray of internal-wave energy at 0.375 times the buoyancy frequency, traced through 260 reflections in a basin with one sloping wall. Because reflection preserves the angle to gravity rather than to the wall, the wall shortens the ray on one bounce and the floor returns it unchanged, so each circuit contracts. The early path is drawn light and the last forty segments heavy, and the floor crossings collapse from a spread of a fifth of the basin to 6.7e-4 — measured off the traced path rather than asserted. That limit cycle is a wave attractor: a basin forced smoothly at one frequency concentrates its energy onto a single line, where the wavelength has been squeezed small enough for viscosity to act. It was predicted in 1995 and photographed in a laboratory tank two years later.
Fig. 5 A ray traced through 260 reflections in a trapezoidal basin. The early path is light and the last forty segments heavy. The floor crossings collapse from a spread of a third of the basin’s width to one part in a million — measured off the traced path rather than asserted — and every starting point converges to the same limit cycle. A basin forced smoothly at one frequency puts all of its energy there.

The result is a wave attractor, and it has no analogue in any of the wave systems this collection has treated. A rectangular basin has modes: standing patterns filling the whole domain, at a discrete set of frequencies, exactly as only some notes fit a pipe. Tilt one wall and the modes are gone. What replaces them is a limit cycle — a single closed path, generally with an irrational relationship to the basin’s dimensions, onto which all rays converge.

Every ray in the basin ends up on the same line. A ray of internal-wave energy at 0.356 times the buoyancy frequency, traced through 260 reflections in a basin with one sloping wall. Because reflection preserves the angle to gravity rather than to the wall, the wall shortens the ray on one bounce and the floor returns it unchanged, so each circuit contracts. The early path is drawn light and the last forty segments heavy, and the floor crossings collapse from a spread of a fifth of the basin to 5.5e-3 — measured off the traced path rather than asserted. That limit cycle is a wave attractor: a basin forced smoothly at one frequency concentrates its energy onto a single line, where the wavelength has been squeezed small enough for viscosity to act. It was predicted in 1995 and photographed in a laboratory tank two years later.
Fig. 6 The same construction in a basin with a gentler wall at a slightly lower frequency, converging onto a different limit cycle with a different shape. Which cycle appears is a discontinuous function of the frequency and the geometry: shifting either slightly can move the attractor to a completely different path, or replace it with a family of them — a sensitivity of the same kind a small change of parameter produces in a chaotic map.

That the attractor is generic rather than special is the part worth stating carefully. It is not that some basins have attractors; it is that any basin without the reflectional symmetry of a rectangle has one, for almost every frequency, and the exceptions form a set of measure zero. The rectangular case with its clean modes is the special one.

Leo Maas and Frans-Peter Lam derived this in 1995 from exactly the ray argument above. Maas and colleagues then built a trapezoidal tank, filled it with salt-stratified water, oscillated it gently at one frequency, and photographed the result: the energy in the tank sat on a single line, in the place the ray tracing said it would.

What the concentration destroys

The obvious reading of an attractor is that energy piles up there, and the useful reading is almost the opposite.

What contracts is the wavelength, not primarily the energy. A beam whose wavelength has been squeezed by a factor of a thousand has its shear multiplied by a thousand at the same energy, because shear is a velocity over a length. Viscosity acts on shear. So the attractor is not a place where energy accumulates; it is a place where energy is removed, at a rate that rises as the contraction proceeds, until dissipation balances the supply.

An attractor is therefore a drain rather than a reservoir, and that is what makes it interesting to oceanography rather than merely to geometry. The ocean’s problem, sketched at the end of the rung below, is that the deep water formed at high latitudes has to be brought back up against its own stratification, and nothing at the surface can reach it. The mixing has to happen in the interior, and it has to happen somewhere specific, because measurements show the interior is mostly extraordinarily quiet — turbulent diffusivities near 10510^{-5} square metres per second, an order of magnitude below what the overturning circulation requires on average.

The resolution is that the mixing is not spread out. It is concentrated where internal waves break, which is above rough topography, at critical slopes, and on attractors — and there the measured diffusivities are 10310^{-3} and above. An ocean that mixes in a few places at a hundred times the average rate and nowhere else is a different ocean, dynamically, from one that mixes uniformly, and which of the two the real one is has been settled in favour of the first largely by measurements made because this geometry predicted where to look.

What an attractor does to a measurement

There is a practical consequence of all this that is worth separating from the physics, because it changes how the ocean is sampled.

An instrument lowered on a wire measures a profile at one place. If the energy in a basin is spread across modes, one profile at a random place is a fair sample of the whole and the average of several is a good estimate. If it is concentrated onto a line occupying a thousandth of the cross-section, a random profile misses it almost always, and the few that hit it look like outliers to be discarded.

That is not hypothetical. Microstructure profilers — instruments that resolve turbulent dissipation directly, at centimetre scales — return distributions of dissipation rate spanning four or five orders of magnitude, with the mean dominated by a handful of profiles. For twenty years the question of whether those were real or instrumental was genuinely open, and the geometry in this essay is part of why they are now taken seriously: a medium that focuses its own energy onto thin sheets is expected to produce exactly that distribution.

The sampling problem has an arithmetic consequence too. An average of a heavy-tailed distribution converges slowly, so estimating a basin’s dissipation from profiles requires far more of them than a normal distribution would — and the number needed depends on how thin the sheets are, which is the quantity the ray argument predicts and the viscous problem sets. Ocean mixing budgets carry uncertainty factors of two or three for this reason, and the uncertainty is about where to look rather than about the instruments.

Where this stops being right

The ray description ignores the wavelength it is tracking. A ray is a valid description while the wavelength is small compared with the basin, and the whole point of the attractor is that it stops being so. Near the limit cycle the ray argument predicts its own failure, and what happens instead — how wide the attractor actually is, and at what scale it saturates — requires the viscous problem rather than the geometric one.

Everything here is linear and two-dimensional. Real basins are three-dimensional, and a ray in three dimensions has a whole cone of directions available at each frequency rather than four. Attractors survive in three dimensions and are harder to characterise, and whether the ocean’s geometry produces them at the relevant frequencies is not fully settled.

Rotation has been left out entirely. At the scales of an ocean basin the Coriolis force matters, and it changes the dispersion relation to ω2=N2cos2φ+f2sin2φ\omega^2 = N^2\cos^2\varphi + f^2\sin^2\varphi, which puts a floor under the frequency as well as a ceiling. Rays still have fixed angles, so attractors still exist, but the range of frequencies that have them is bounded on both sides.

And the tank experiments are small. A laboratory basin has a Reynolds number many orders of magnitude below an ocean’s, so the attractor there is broad and viscous where an ocean’s would be narrow and turbulent. That the geometry is confirmed does not confirm the fate of the energy at oceanic scales, which is inferred rather than observed.

What the pictures cannot show

The ray figures draw lines, and a ray is not a thing. What is travelling is a beam of finite width carrying a wave of finite wavelength, and the entire content of the attractor result is about what happens to that wavelength — which the lines, having no width and no wavelength, cannot display. The contraction is drawn as a convergence of paths, and it is really a compression of a structure the drawing does not contain.

Nor can any still figure show the direction of travel along the attractor. A limit cycle is a closed path traversed in a definite sense, and reversing that sense gives a different physical solution: the ray tracing run backwards from the attractor diverges, filling the basin, which is the statement that the attractor is attracting. A drawing of the path alone is symmetric under a reversal that the physics is not.

What the ladder has reached

Four rungs stand on stratification. One parcel gave a frequency; many parcels gave a relation that fixes an angle and leaves the wavelength free; a mountain in a wind fixed the wavelength by requiring the pattern to stand still; and a sloping wall changes it on every reflection until the changes accumulate into a single line.

The habit worth carrying away is about what a boundary condition acts on. A reflection law is a statement about which quantities the boundary is allowed to change, and that list depends on the medium rather than on the boundary. For an isotropic medium the wavelength is not on the list and the angle is; for this one it is the other way round, and every consequence in the essay follows from the swap. The test to apply elsewhere is to ask what the dispersion relation ties to what — a medium whose frequency fixes a direction will always have a strange reflection law, which is why the same phenomenon appears for inertial waves in a rotating fluid and for magnetohydrodynamic waves along a field.

What is left on this ladder is what the attractor does once it is no longer a ray: the parametric subharmonic instability that transfers energy from the tidal frequency to half of it, the breaking that follows, and the question of how much of the terawatt entering the internal tide is dissipated near where it was generated rather than in the far field. That last number is the one an ocean model most wants and the one least well measured.

Part 4 of 6

This essay is one argument about Stratification. The others:

What links here

Essays that reach for this one mid-argument — the half of a link its own author cannot write down.

The objects named here

The third axis, after the field and the reading path: the things themselves, and every essay that touches each one.

AnisotropyBoundary conditionBuoyancy frequencyDispersion relationDissipationFocusingGroup velocityInternal wavesMixingReflectionStratificationWave attractor